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Forillon National Park, QC to Pointe-Saint-Pierre, QC
At breakfast we decided we had to go back to the beautiful beach one more time before leaving. Of course it took longer than expected because a young couple had to say hi to Pepsi. Pepsi was slightly irritated because she wanted to hunt for more seafood shells. The weather was magnificent and we vowed to go swimming in the ocean at some point, but not today.
We packed up and let our adventure begin. Where would we end up? How many kilometres would we drive? As it turned out, we made 88 kilometres because there was so much to see and do.
The next gorgeous sandy beach was not far down the road and we had to stop and devour a Haagen-Daz ice cream. Then we went to the beach and waded through the warm, sunlit, crystal clear ocean water. A school of tiny little fish provided a skin exfoliating spa treatment. Ruth swears they had tiny teeth. A crab was curious enough to crawl up to us to investigate us and then buried itself in the sand.
It was time to say goodbye to the beach and move on to the Gaspe Museum where we learned of the history of the area. A really neat exhibit had two “paintings” talking to each other (each was a computer monitor) and told the story of Jacques Cartier arriving in 1534.
A special exhibition featured Madame Bolduc, a Quebecois singer/songwriter from the Gaspe area. Most interesting was the exhibit itself with its multimedia components projecting information and video clips on the walls, floor and car.
After some grocery shopping we made it to our final destination for today. Ruth was driving around a corner and exclaimed “look at these amazing red rocks” and Martin said, “that is the campground we are looking for.” They had plenty of room for us to stay and the red rocks for us to photograph. A highlight was “Le Tete Indien”, a rock that clearly resembles the head of a person.
The legend of the origin of this head goes as follows:
It is on board a large sailing ship that a European crew came alongside St-Georges-de-Malbaie’s coasts. They dropped anchor in a little cove near Ile Plate.
Eager to find fresh water and wild berries, some of the crew members reached land. Once on dry land, they saw a young Indian princess playing with children. Obviously entranced by this young girl, the white men decided to capture her. They took her on their boat and headed back to their distant continent.
The young Indian girl’s sudden disappearance caused her lover very much grief.. Even today, the pain of the man afflicted by the loss of his loved one can still be perceived. This face inlaid into the cliff is that of a fiance endlessly waiting for his lover to return. With his back turned to the sea, the Indian is sadly waiting for the waters to bring is love back.
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Pointe-Saint-Pierre, QC to Saint-Godefroi, QC
After a frantic search for Martin’s glasses, which turned out to simply be hiding in the sunglass case, we could leave our campground. We said goodbye to the surprised owners who had hoped we would stay a bit longer, and set out for nearby Perce Rock.
Upon arrival, we bravely walked to the rocky beach that would take us to the land bridge to the Perce Rock itself. The walk along the beach was somewhat dangerous as the cliffs above aren’t entirely stable and are known to slide occasionally. We marched along across pebbles, large rocks and slippery seaweed that had washed ashore. The tide was rising and the land bridge was already knee deep so we decided to take pictures from a safe distance instead of going across.
After seeing the rock from the bottom, we now had to see it from the top. We walked a safer trail up a hill and photographed from the top.
After two hours of hiking, we deserved an ice cream and luckily there was a small artisanal ice cream shop with delicious ice cream and sorbet. Ruth enjoyed Maple Pecan and Dark Chocolate and Martin had Maple Pecan with the most amazing Blueberry sorbet.
Exploring Perce downtown was fun with all its people, shops, cafes, restaurants, motels and traffic but we could not settle on a place to eat so we made our way back to the van, took a last look at the rock in the distance and left just before the rain began.
The drive took us through many small towns and great scenery and we made it to the municipal campground in Saint-Godefroi which is right next to the water and a small fishing harbour.
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Saint-Godefroi, QC to Petit-Rocher, NB
After homemade-from-scratch apple pancakes we made it 150 meters to the fishing dock to photograph the fishing boats and a single kayak that was being launched forever by a woman with tremendous upper arm muscles.
After this hard work, we obviously needed some nourishment. Speaking of apples, the little cafe and gift shop had wonderful fresh still-warm apple tarts available for $6.00. They were the size of small pies and we devoured a quarter each in the pavilion outside and packed the remaining half for later.
Well fed, we were determined to make it to New Brunswick non-stop today. That did not happen. This time it wasn’t apples but strawberries that caught our attention. Strawberries forever. This 5th generation family farm didn’t just have the most amazing strawberries we’ve had in a long time, but also strawberry wine and digestif, jams, pies and double strawberry ice cream. We tasted the wine and digestif and needless to say our van is now well stocked. A pie and two boxes of strawberries were also added to the load. The boxes of strawberries didn’t last very long but the strawberry pie is fighting with the half apple pie in the fridge. Unfortunately, they were out of the double strawberry ice cream!
Now we became serious, only looking right and left and didn’t even stop at the honey and honey wine making store. We said goodbye to beautiful Quebec for now and said hello to New Brunswick. Martin was happily entertained by four visitor information agents and came out with a library of brochures and suggestions for a campground and restaurant for the evening.
Highway 134 along the shoreline showed us small towns, some more successful than others. We switched to highway 11 (Trans-Canada) for part of the way, but other than trees on either side of the highway there wasn’t anything to see. We switched back to highway 134 and will continue to follow it because of the scenery and towns.
We found the recommended campground and enjoyed the engaging owner who presented us with a gift of two fresh mackerels which are destined to be lunch or dinner tomorrow.
Our dinner was fish as well. Fresh cod, done two ways at a lovely restaurant with a splendid waterfront, away from the road. The owner/chef of La Fine Grobe was from France and had studied linguistics in France and Saarbrücken, Germany. He came to Canada to teach, bought this property and started a bed-and-breakfast and restaurant.
We returned to the campground just before the rain storm hit, battened the hatches and went to a well deserved sleep.
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Petit-Rocher, NB to Bertrand, NB
80 kilometers is all we made today. Obviously we didn’t spend all day on the road, but at the Village Historique Acadien learning about the Acadian people during the 18th to 20th century in New Brunswick.
As introduction we watched a 5 minute video that covered the history of these French settlers who first lived in what is now Nova Scotia but had to relocate to New Brunswick because of the French/English war. The open air museum featured the lifestyle of these Acadian people through the centuries.
We visited numerous buildings, some houses and some workshops where people in costumes of the time gave us insight into the lives and trades of barrel makers, blacksmiths, printers, workworkers, farmers, weavers, spinners and housekeepers at various times in history. We had a lot of fun talking to these people and learned a lot.
The Motel and Camping Colibri campground we chose for tonight is only about 5km away from the pioneer village and is large with about 300 sites, many with permanent trailers. We are in a smaller treed part of the campground.
Remember those mackerel fishes we told you about yesterday? They were still in the fridge and Ruth was dreading making them for dinner. Martin found a recipe online that sounded delicious and we improvised by BBQing them instead of doing them in the oven and adapting the recipe by using the closest ingredients we had. They turned out really well and we enjoyed them with a glass of red wine.
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Bertrand, NB to Miramichi, NB
After the stress of preparing the mackerel, we slept like babies don’t. We decided to postpone breakfast and left the campground relatively early because there were many people leaving and we didn’t want to be in the queue at the dumping station.
We didn’t have to drive far before the brakes were squeaking to make it into the Fromagerie Les Blancs d’Arcadie parking lot. Fresh cheese curds, still warm, were irresistible! We didn’t devour them right away but looked for a perfect breakfast place in Caraquet.
Ruth decided on the right place for breakfast and ignored Martin’s critique. A perfect place it was. We walked a path towards the water and sat with the wind blowing not so gently through our hair.
We skipped the Miscou lighthouse and headed straight to Shippagan, home of the New Brunswick Aquarium and Marine Centre where we learned about the various fish and sea life in the area as well as saw videos on the development and advances in fisheries industry over the years.
New to us was that lobsters can have various colours. Very rare are albinos, which represent only 1 in 100,000,000 lobsters. The blue ones are 1 in 2,000,000. Regardless of their colour, all except for the albinos, will turn red when they are cooked as that base pigment is the only one that can withstand heat.
The harbour seals were cute but not cooperative for picture taking as their feeding was still some time away.
To speed things up, we took highway 11 to go to Miramichi, hoping to join the Headless Nun tour, but alas, this was not offered this year. We would have loved to be scared in a dark, mosquito infested forest. We had to settle for a simple walk in the mosquito infested forest on our own.
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