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Cedar Key, Florida
Today we took a vacation from our vacation.
No driving, no planning, no sightseeing, no musts. We had a nice scrambled egg breakfast on our own dock overlooking the Gulf of Mexico. A gentle breeze kept us nice and comfortable.
After a very short walk and some ice cream we set up the hammock and took turns reading and softly rocking in the wind.
After this strenuous activity and a cheese sandwich we desperately needed a siesta (aka an afternoon nap) in air conditioned comfort away from the heat. In the late afternoon it was cooler again and it was time for some exercise. We walked to downtown Cedar Key learning a bit about the history and looking for a seafood restaurant to have dinner at. Cedar Key was a railroad town at one time and had a thriving fishing industry until net fishing was prohibited. Tourism was the next source of income and is now accompanied by farming clams and oysters.
The town has many restaurants and bars and shows its late 19th century architecture well. There is even a very haunted hotel.
We chose a restaurant right at the waterfront and enjoyed a delicious dinner of shrimp, scallops and iced tea.
Now we just needed to walk home and enjoy the sunset from our dock.
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Cedar Key, Florida to Grayton Beach, Florida
We said good-bye to Cedar Key but we weren’t ready to leave Florida entirely. We wanted to drive as close to the water as possible to see the lovely white beaches in the Florida panhandle. Our search for lunch made us miss a turn which resulted in a short visit of Tallahassee, the capital of Florida. Truth be told, we only had a glance from the Interstate and then returned to the smaller more coastal highway.
We stopped and saw a post showing how high the water can be during a hurricane!
Seeing all these nice beaches and white sand makes you want to take a break for a nice coffee and smoothie. Port St. Joe is a quaint little town with eclectic little stores. You could tell that it wasn’t the main season as some stores where closed and the old movie theater was abandoned. The coffee/smoothie store (bin 4eleven) was new and was doing quite well.
Time was running out so we continued on our beautiful coastal highway (US-98) without stopping at stunning white sand beaches along the way in the Mexico Beach and Panama City.
We were rewarded by getting a great camping spot at Grayton Beach State Park. Thunder and lightning prevented us from walking around too much that night but there would be tomorrow morning.
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Grayton Beach, Florida to New Orleans, Louisiana
Ok, time to explore the beach!!
Need we even say more?
The waves and currents were very strong it was almost impossible to swim but we did go into the water and gave it an honest try and had lots of fun. A set of flags on the beach indicate the conditions. In our case, yellow (Medium Risk) and Purple (Dangerous Marine Wildlife) which the ranger said was jellyfish in our case. We didn’t have the misfortune to meet any.
The sand here is local and not shipped in from the Bahamas as we were told it was in Key West. The dunes serve a very important purpose to protect the land behind them from flooding and are therefore protected themselves from human footprints and the erosion caused by walking on them.
After breakfast we hopped on I-10 west and left Florida and entered Alabama. Here we had lunch at the De-Railed Diner, a railway/travel themed diner at a travel centre.
Continuing onwards, we entered Mississippi and then Louisiana and stopped at their visitor centre to pick up some tips on what to see during our stay.
Our home for the night is the French Quarter RV Resort which located a short walk from the centre of the French Quarter in New Orleans!
We couldn’t have a better base for our stay. Now we were ready to experience New Orleans on a Friday night! What an experience, see Bourbon Street for yourself.
The front desk staff suggested we head over to where the locals go, namely Frenchmen Street, and recommended we visit the Snug Harbor for a Jazz concert with the Ellis Marsalis Quintet.
At the table next to us was a family from St. Louis, Missouri and we shared travel adventures and got a lot of tips of what to see, eat and do while in New Orleans.
The concert was over at 9:30PM and we still hadn’t had any dinner, so rather than taking a taxi back to the campground, we decided to walk and look for something to eat. The streets were packed and alive with music and all kinds of interesting stores.
We ended up having a slice of pizza and a litre of water and limped home, tired but extremely happy about the day.
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New Orleans, Louisiana
After doing laundry while we wrote the last two days of blog entries, we headed out to explore more of the French Quarter and find some lunch.
We decided to go to a traditional Creole restaurant called Mr. B’s Bistro and had a fabulous lunch. Martin had a Warm Yellow Fin Tuna salad (highly recommended!) and Ruth had Pasta Jambalaya. For dessert we narrowed our choices down to four options but after a long discussion including the waiters opinion we settled on two – Hot Buttered Pecan Pie and Three Berry Cobbler. A totally satisfying dining experience!
Now it was time to walk and sweat off the calories!
The French Quarter looks quite different during the day and we enjoyed the galleries and antique stores.
One highlight was definitely the Bevolo Gas and Electric Light store and show-factory. We had seen a number of these gas lamps all over the French Quarter last night and now we got to see how they were each hand-made.
Time for something sweet. On our walk past the Cafe Du Monde where we only looked at their famous beignets, we stopped at a Creole praline manufacturing shop and purchased one to share.
It tasted a bit like fudge or maple sugar with pecans.
Next stop was the market where alligators and arthritis caught our eyes…
Totally exhausted and with many liquid calories dripping off of us we headed home and picked up a gallon of water along the way. Yesterday we had bought water from the same shop and paid $3.00 for a litre. Today we bought a 4 litre jug for $3.00. Go figure.
Pepsi had had her beauty rest in her air-conditioned van and couldn’t understand why we drank half a gallon of water and then needed a two hour siesta.
After it had cooled off a bit outside, we headed over to the pool for a swim which was cut short by a thunderstorm. We re-joined Pepsi in the van and provided some moral support in her hour of fear.
Tomorrow we plan to visit some plantations. Our campsite is right next to I-10 so we should have a quick get-away.
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New Orleans, Louisiana to New Iberia, Louisiana
Today was an especially exciting day for Ruth. She wanted so much to visit the plantations along the Great River Road between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Ten plantations are in close proximity but we only had time to visit two of them. Prior to the civil war, more than half of America’s millionaires lived between New Orleans and Natchez, their fortunes tied to the soil of the Mississippi river.
The first plantation we visited was the Laura Plantation, named after Laura Locoul (1861-1963), the last decendant of the Duparc family to own this Creole plantation. The building looks modest compared to some other plantations which is typical for Creole families who saw their plantation as a business.
Their main home was in New Orleans. Inside, the rooms are fairly modest. It was built by slaves who learned to be carpenters using only wooden nails and bricks they made themselves.
Some of the slave houses are still on the property. Plantation kitchens were always outside of the main building because they had a tendancy to burn down. We were also able to see the retirement home of Laura’s grandmother, Elisabeth Duparc, who was known for standing on the balcony and pointing out all the mistakes that were being made.
We had a fabulous tour with Ethan, a trained actor, who showed lots of knowledge and enthusiasm.
At the gift store we purchased the memoirs of Laura, a Creole cookbook and a small bottle of rum made from local sugarcane.
The second plantation we visited is called Oak Alley plantation. It is known for its quarter mile alley lined with 28 three hundred year old oak trees. We had a fabulous lunch at the restaurant on the premises.
The majestic mansion is worth seeing both from the outside as well as the inside.
We especially liked the self-guided exhibit on slavery at the Oak Alley plantation. The guided tour of the interior of the house definitely wasn’t as good as the Laura tour.
A short video on sugar production promising to show both historical and current methods of sugar processing turned out to be not much more than a promotional film by the sugar producers extolling the virtues of sugar and seemed to encourage visitors to eat more cupcakes with lots of sugar icing.
We left the historic sites of the plantations and continued West to New Iberia where we are camping the the KOC Campground.
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